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Holly’s Den: CRATE TRAINING
The best tool for training your
puppy or grown dog to behave itself indoors is a crate. A
crate is simply a plastic or wire box designed to serve as an
artificial den for the dog. They can be purchased at most pet
stores or at Wal-Mart or Academy.
Crate training is the easiest way to
house-train your puppy/dog. Crates are also used to prevent
destructive chewing by puppies during the teething stage or by
untrained dogs suffering from anxiety and/or excess energy. Crates
provide a time-out area for over-excited dogs and a space they can
call their own when they crave peace and quiet. Crates have the
added advantage of providing a traveling home for your dog; as
long as he has his crate, the dog feels secure and “at home.”
Here's why crate training works—Domestic
dogs have some of the same instincts that lead wolves and wild
dogs to live in dens for shelter, and to keep their dens clean by
going outside to urinate and defecate. Dogs like to curl up
under beds, desks or other small spaces because this makes them
feel safe and secure. Every dog can benefit from a crate/ place of
his own.
The right size-- The grown dog needs
to be able to stand up and turn around in the crate, and the crate
should be about the same length of the dog when he is lying down.
Buy an adult size crate for a puppy, but use a space divider
because if the crate is too large instead of keeping it clean, the
puppy may eliminate in one end.
Where to place it--The crate should be
placed where the dog can be close to the family but not in the
middle of commotion. The best places are usually the bedroom so
that the dog can enjoy being near to you while sleeping, or a
quiet corner in the den.
How to crate train--Introductions are
important—Begin by leaving the crate door open. Toss tasty
treats (or sometimes a toy) into the empty crate and encourage
your dog to run in and get the treats or his toy; repeat about 5
times per session and do several sessions per day.
Play the Crate Game--This is an
especially good way to introduce the crate to dogs that may tend
to initially resist confinement or feel some anxiety about being
left alone. Dr. Patricia McConnell describes the crate game as
follows: After your dog will willingly run into the crate to get
the treats you’ve tossed inside, begin to shut the door, but only
for a second or two, then open it again. As soon as your dog
seems comfortable with this, shut the door a little longer as you
feed more treats through the crate door, then release. If your
dog is still comfortable, lure your dog into the crate as before
with a treat toss, but also have a special surprise waiting in the
crate—a kong stuffed with some of your dogs favorite treats or a
sterile beef bone (if he likes these). As soon as your dog gets
busy with the Kong or bone, walk away for about 30 seconds. When
you return, open the door and remove the Kong or bone. The
strategy here is to teach your dog to welcome your temporary
absence since your return means the end of munch time. Now
gradually begin to increase the time you leave your dog crated
with his kong or bone.
Make the crate comfortable--add a
blanket or pad. Praise him whenever he enters his crate. Now you
can offer a rawhide bone or Nylabone to chew. Sometimes stay in
the room, going about your business. Ignore any barking or
howling and as soon as he stops, praise him and pop him a treat.
Release the puppy/dog while he is being quiet and keep things low
key when he comes out, so you don’t reinforce/reward the release.
Gradually lengthen the time he stays and gradually begin leaving
the room for a few minutes at a time.
Tip--At times, when you are not
training, toss treats and toys inside (when he’s not present) so
he will never know what goodies to expect to find in his crate!
You may also crate train with a clicker—Begin
with a hungry dog and the door open. Toss treats inside (or if
your dog is more toy or retrieve motivated, use toys). If he
won’t go in, toss them right outside the crate, then at the
entrance to the door, then just inside so he can get the treat by
only poking his nose in. Gradually toss the treats further in.
When he enters does enter to get a treat, click & treat (C&T)
while he is inside. As long as he remains inside, keep clicking
and treating. When he is able to wait calmly for the C&T, close
but don’t latch the door. C&T, then open the door. Now gradually
extend the time the door is closed before you C&T. When he will
stay in for at least about 10 seconds without fussing, close and
latch the door. Take one step away, click, walk back and treat.
Repeat this step but begin to vary the distance and time that you
leave the crate. If at any time he whines and fusses, wait
until he is quiet, then C&T.
House-training with a crate-- Feed,
water, and walk the dog. If business gets taken care of on the
walk, let the dog stay out for the length of time it can be
expected to stay clean (15 min for puppies, an hour for adults).
After playtime, crate the dog until the next walk or trip
outside. When you take her out, take her straight outside, on
leash. As she takes care of business, use a cue word so that later
when she is trained, she will perform on command and praise her
the second she’s done. As training progresses, lengthen the time
the dog spends out of the crate, but always leave the door
open so the dog can retreat to the crate whenever she wants to
rest undisturbed.
Chewing Prevention-- An untrained
dog loose in the house can wreck havoc. When you can monitor the
dog and he starts to chew something forbidden, use your No Reward
Marker (NMR) word and remove. Then hand him an acceptable dog
chew and praise him. When you are busy or out of the house, the
dog can be safely crated for up to three hours. He will be
content to nap and won’t have a chance to destroy your possessions
when you are not there to correct.
Traveling-- If the crate will fit in
your vehicle, it will prevent your dog from landing in your lap
when you hit the brakes or jumping on you because she sees a cat
or is panicked by a burst of thunder. Even if the crate won’t fit
in your car, a folding crate is a great thing to travel with—it
may get you into hotels that otherwise won’t accept dogs; it
offers you the security of knowing you can go out to dinner
without returning to find all the pillows chewed. As you go from
place to place, your dog will feel at home as long as she has her
own crate.
A final word-- Do not use the crate as
punishment. Although a rambunctious puppy can certainly be
put in his crate for a time out, keep in mind that this is
supposed to be a haven for your dog and never use prolonged
confinement in the crate to frighten or hurt your dog. After your
dog has reliable house manners, he should not need to spend more
than about 3 hours daily in a crate and leaving a dog crated for
more than 3 hours at a time is not good for the dog’s muscles and
joints, much less his emotional well-being. Crated dogs are not
getting exercise or mental stimulation. DON’T OVERCRATE!
WARNING-- If using a wire crate remove
collar/tags to prevent entanglement.
Note--Some older dogs or dogs with
separation anxiety are not able to tolerate confinement and will
not adapt to a crate. If you give it a fair try with one of these
seniors and it doesn’t work, don’t force the issue.
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